While we would like to think it just has to lie on the floor and look pretty, carpet needs proper care to maintain the indoor environment and get the longest, best-looking life out of it.

A history in carpet cleaning

I have been in this industry since 1977. I have seen a lot of things happen in this industry throughout the years. Back in the day, a lot of what you might call “bathtub chemistry” and machines were built to take on huge cleaning jobs. I had one where we could operate two cleaning wands off one machine. My brother Chuck and I were in Atlanta in 1987 at what was called “The Market” for the flooring industry. That year, three stain-resistant nylon fibers were introduced, such as Anso V Worry-Free and Monsanto Locked-In Stain Blocker. And do you remember that DuPont Certified STAINMASTER commercial of the toddler throwing his airplane plate full of food on the rug?

Immediately after the introduction of these advanced nylon fibers, carpet cleaning detergent formulators had to reformulate their detergents to have a pH of 10 or less. A scramble ensued for all those companies who cleaned residential carpet. It did not affect my cleaning company that much, because over 80% of carpet we cleaned was multi-family housing and commercial.

On day one of the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification’s (IICRC) Carpet Cleaning Technician (CCT) classes I teach, I tell my students that I can teach them how to clean carpet in just a few hours. Yet, the reasons why we clean carpet the way we do, takes a bit longer. On day two of the class, I start by asking students if they think any lessons they learned on day one will make their jobs easier. More often than not, students reply, “I had no idea there was this much to know about carpet!” Because “It’s just carpet!”

Also, the class is taught according to the ANSI/IICRC S100 Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Cleaning of Textile Floor Coverings. Did you know such a document existed? The very first carpet cleaning standard was published on Nov. 1, 1991.

This came about after what some may say was a condescending challenge to “rug-suckers and shampoo slingers.” It came from the carpet manufacturers through their spokespeople of the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) at an event where the IICUC (the predecessor of the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC)) board of directors and other “who’s who” of the carpet cleaning industry were gathered in St. Pete Beach, Florida, for a board of directors meeting. The challenge came across, in my opinion, as more of a threat when the CRI said, in essence, “You folks come up with a standard on how carpet should be cleaned, or we will.”

Within one year, the standard was published, and updates to that standard have been made throughout the years—with the 7th edition published in 2021. I could cover a lot more history, such as the CRI Seal of Approval program that started testing the efficacy of detergents, equipment, and cleaning methods, but that is another article in and of itself. The bottom line is professional carpet cleaning can be rocket science, even though “it’s just carpet.”

The carpet cleaning technician’s manual

The manual I use contains 14 chapters, not considering all the subchapters and sections, which include:

Spots occur frequently and need special care.

1. The Fiber Basics
2. Characteristics of Fiber Types
3. Fiber Identification
4. Fiber/Carpet Dyeing
5. Identifying Dye or Color Problems
6. Carpet Construction
7. Carpet Soiling
8. Cleaning: Practical Application
9. pH Specifications
10. Principles of Cleaning
11. Cleaning Methods
12. Deodorizing Techniques
13. Potential Problems and Challenges
14. Advanced Spot and Stain Removal

Who would have thought there was this much to learn about carpet, let alone cleaning it, because, of course, “it’s just carpet.”

I will now give you the two-day IICRC Carpet Cleaning Technician (CCT) class highlights.

The fiber basics

The class starts with fiber basics. Even though we talk a bit about wool, because it’s out there, three primary synthetic fibers (nylon, polyester, and polypropylene) are used in the manufacturing of carpet. Each of these fibers has unique characteristics regarding how they take dye, perform, accept/resist stains, and how easily they will clean. Knowing these help technicians properly clean carpet. I also teach how to perform a burn test to confirm the fiber type.

Then, we start talking about dirt and why cleaners are essential to the health and safety of occupants in homes and businesses. Properly maintained carpet is good for the environment and makes homes and businesses healthier places to live and work.

The chemistry of cleaning

These four principles are used to clean anything.

We talk about the chemicals we use to clean carpet. Within the chemistry of cleaning section, we talk about solutions, emulsions, suspension, surfactants, and pH.

A good chemical can help you reduce the time and effort it takes to clean. Each fiber can use a different chemistry to get the best results. Following the C.H.A.T. (chemical, heat, agitation, and time) principles of soil suspension will guide you further.

Soil removal step

The phrase, “cleaning doesn’t happen until the dirt goes someplace else,” comes into play now. With the shampoo method, the suspended soil is removed by wet vacuuming and subsequent vacuuming. With the bonnet cleaning method, the soil is absorbed into the bonnet. During the absorbent compound method, the soil is absorbed into the compound. In the water rinse (hot water) extraction method, the soil is rinsed off the carpet using the cleaning wand or large commercial walk-behind machines.

Spot, stain, wicking, and discoloration

The class teaches cleaners the difference between a spot, stain, discoloration, and wicking.

• Spot: Substance added to the carpet (beverage, a plate of food, tar, paint, etc.)
• Stain: Color added to the carpet (coffee, sports drinks, wine, etc.)
• Discoloration: Color removed from the carpet (bleach, benzoyl peroxide, etc.)
• Wicking: This occurs as the carpet dries, and unremoved substances wick up the fibers to reappear.

Groom and dry

Once the carpet has been cleaned, it may need to be groomed or brushed to lift and set the pile, so it looks its best and dries well. Tabs and blocks are used to protect furniture from moisture and the carpet from stains.

Bottom line

As you can see from this brief overview, owning and caring for carpet requires a lot. Carpet is an investment like any other large purchase. Even though “it’s just carpet,” maintaining it properly will help you keep the indoor environment healthier and get the longest, best-looking life out of it.

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Vinyl composition tile (VCT), terrazzo, marble, ceramic tile, polished concrete, luxury vinyl, you name it—if it’s a hard, smooth surface, it can be slippery when wet and sometimes even when it is dry. This is the result of a low coefficient of friction (COF) at those times.

The National Floor Safety Institute (NFSI) and other online sources define COF as the ratio of the force that maintains contact between an object and a surface and the frictional force that resists the object’s motion. Unfortunately, many of us may have already been unwilling participants in COF’s definition when we have slipped on a floor, ice, tub/shower, slime-covered stones, etc. In such cases, you have firsthand experience with this fundamental law of physics and the ever-present force of gravity.

I have seen where an overabundance of fine particulate soil, such as drywall dust or pellets of ice-melting compounds, prevented the sole of a shoe from contacting the floor’s surface, making it slippery and causing low COF. This would be an example of a dry floor being slippery.

Soil, water, oil, or detergent residues can all play a role in slippery floors. Any amount of water between the sole of a shoe and the floor is the most common cause. Look at what happens with the tires on your car and the road when it’s raining. Oil, for sure, is a cause of slippery floors, especially in food service areas or by the front doors coming off an asphalt parking lot. Another sometimes overlooked source is the detergent used to clean the floor regularly.

Residue on the floor

What type of residue is left on your floors by the detergent you use after cleaning? Is the dispensing system (metering device, measuring cup, or glug) you use giving the proper dilution ratio for cleaning the floor?

I recall a case where slipping issues on a terrazzo floor were caused by a heavy detergent residue, which was tragic. Furthermore, the residue left on the floor was so bad it contributed to heavy soiling on adjoining carpeted areas. The dispensing system did a fine job of diluting the proper amount into the autoscrubber used in parts of the facility. Still, it was the wrong dilution ratio where the floor was being mopped. It was a good detergent but the wrong dilution for the application.

Why was that happening? A walk-behind floor cleaning machine applies the detergent to the floor, agitates it with a pad or brush, and vacuums the soil and cleaner, leaving a dry floor. When mopping the floor, you leave detergent-laden water on the floor to dry on its own. That light film of detergent builds up over time, causing the issue. So, ensure your dispensing system is properly diluting the detergent for the procedure.

The National Floor Safety Institute (NFSI) tested common household cleaners for their slip resistance and published the results in their January 2023 NFSI Household Floor Cleaner Study. They found that some products reduced the floor’s COF after being used; in other words, they made the floor more slippery.

Obvious things like soil, water, and oil can cause floors to be slippery. A not-so-obvious culprit can be an ice-melting compound and salt. Are you aware that calcium chloride, the most common ice- and snow-melting product, is a type of desiccant? The term desiccant is a fancy word for hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture, moisture that is in the air. Why should you be concerned about this? If a film of calcium chloride or salt is left on the floor after it is mopped, your floor will take longer to dry and, in some cases, never truly dry, remaining slippery.

The bottom line

A damp floor is a dangerous floor, but so too is a soiled floor. An improperly maintained floor can cause it to be slippery. Your goal should be to completely remove both soil and detergents from the floor. Use detergents specified for the floor type in question and follow the manufacturer’s recommended dilution ratios. By using the proper cleaning methods, techniques, products, and applying what you have learned as a cleaning professional, you will do all you can to reduce the risk of a floor becoming slippery.

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A spot is something you can feel, and it will rub off onto a towel.

A spot is a relatively small, well-defined area that differs in appearance from the surrounding pile. Typically, a spot is more easily removed than a stain, although some spot contaminants might also contain staining and/or discoloring agents.

In my real-world terms, the definition of a��spot��is a substance added to the carpet, such as dirt, mud, food, coffee, or soft drink (or another sugary beverage) that was dripped or spilled. It also includes things like tar, gum, or glue. Can you feel it? If so, then it’s a spot! If you can’t, then it’s probably a stain.

A stain is substance that adds color to the fiber and cannot be removed.

����stain��is defined as color added. This means color has been absorbed into the carpet fiber—like when the coloring found in Kool-Aid, sports drinks, food, cranberry juice, medicines, copier toner, etc., gets spilled onto and absorbed into the carpet. Some fibers, although treated to resist dye stains, can still stain. The key word here is “resistant,” as in the fiber is stain “resistant,” not stain “proof.”

Wicking is��that dreaded word for a spot that keeps coming back. Wicking happens when the material that caused the spot gets further into the carpet than what was cleaned. So, while you think you cleaned the spot, when the carpet dries, it pulls that material back to the surface and creates a spot again. Put more cleaner on it, a stack of towels, and some weight, and return in 24 hours. That will work as a poultice to pull and absorb the wicking spot from the carpet.

A discoloration is color loss, a permanent situation unless redyed.

Discoloration��happens when something takes the color out of the carpet. Most bleaching substances will do this—toilet bowl cleaner, benzoyl peroxide, actual bleach. When a discoloration happens, the only fix is to have a carpet cleaning professional add the color back in.

There is a common saying in the carpet cleaning industry: “The difference between a spot and a stain is 24 hours.” As we have discussed, much more is involved in determining whether you are dealing with a��spot,��stain,��wicking, or discoloration.

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This phenomenon’s occurrence is random, and its causes are largely unexplained. It is difficult, if not impossible, to predict or prevent.

Pooling

Pile reversal creates a permanent change in the carpet’s appearance caused by the difference in the way light reflects off the sides and tip of a yarn as the pile lays in different directions. Shaded areas appear lighter in color from one direction and darker from another direction.

Pooling or watermarking are other terms for this phenomenon and can occur in both trafficked or untrafficked areas. Pooling or watermarking might develop on a carpet made with any fiber(s) or manufacturing process. Once the condition has developed, it cannot be removed permanently.

A carpet exhibiting watermarking might look as though water has spilled on sections of the carpet, hence, the term “watermarking.” While it looks like something has spilled on the carpet, water has nothing to do with it; it is a phenomenon with no known cause or permanent fix.

Why the carpet pile, which lays uniformly in one direction when installed, changes direction permanently, is often a mystery. It can also appear that the carpet has lost color in the affected areas, but after close examination and testing, you’ll discover that no color loss has actually occurred.

Traffic-related pile reversal

In many installations, the pile reversal direction is predictable from the pattern of foot traffic. Carpet pile is pushed away from turning traffic and toward the sides of a corridor.

When any form of pile reversal takes place, there is little which can be done to return the carpet to its original appearance. Pile lifting, steaming, brushing, or vacuuming might create some temporary appearance change; however, this change is only at the top portion of the tufts, and the pile will eventually return to the reversed position.

All these phenomena are characteristic of a textile floorcovering; they are not manufacturing or installation related.

References:

Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) Technical Bulletin:
Pile Reversal–Watermarking Shading (April 19, 2018),
Pile Reversal–Watermarking Shading Technical Bulletin ().

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Although bluing liquid is still available, a fluorescent dye or whitening agent called optical brightener is now used in nearly all laundry detergents and fabric softeners. Optical brighteners reflect the ultraviolet portion of the light spectrum as blue-white light. This is the stuff that made your shirt glow at the roller rink. Because optical brighteners do such a great job in our laundry, it’s very common to find it added to carpet cleaning detergents, as well as spot and stain removers used on carpet.

Do optical brighteners work on carpet?

��Optical brighteners, while useful with laundry, are often associated with the permanent yellowing of carpet. Cleaning agents with optical brightener in them can affect carpet dyes, causing a gradual loss of color over an extended period of time. As optical brighteners degrade, they turn yellow and cannot be removed, leaving your carpet with a yellowed appearance (see photos 1 and 2).

Spot removers with optical brightener in them can sometimes leave a spot that looks purple under normal daylight. They can also leave a permanent lighter-colored halo around the spot. Note the size and shape of these spots, treated with a product that contained optical brightener, when viewed under ultraviolet light (see photos 3 and 4).

��

Compare these images to the photos of animal urine when viewed under ultraviolet light (see photos 5 and 6).

Detergents containing optical brightener should never be used on your carpet. I cannot think of one carpet manufacturer that allows detergents or spot removers with optical brightener in them to be used on their carpet. In addition, some manufacturers will void a carpet’s warranty if detergents containing optical brightener are ever used on it.

It amazes me that after all these years, and with all the fabulous carpet cleaning detergents and spot removers readily available from reputable formulators, optical brighteners are still found in some of them.

Is optical brightener in your carpet cleaning detergent?

I use a simple test todetermine if carpet cleaning detergents or spot removers have optical brightener in them: Pour some of it on a white coffee filter, then rinse it under running water. I then take an ultraviolet light and direct the light on the filter. If it fluoresces blue-white in color, it has optical brightener in it and should never be used on carpet.

Another tidbit: I often inspect carpet for seam issues, such as fraying and raveling. Many adhesive manufacturers of seam sealer adhesives add optical brighteners to them, so inspectors like me can direct ultraviolet light at the seam edges to see if the edges of the carpet fluoresce a blue-white color (see photos 7 and 8). This allows me to determine if the seam sealer was applied, and, if so, if it was applied properly.

While optical brighteners might make your brights brighter and whites whiter in your laundry, stay away from them when it comes to carpet. Usually, just water or water and a non-lotion dish detergent or hydrogen peroxide will remove most spots.

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While luxury vinyl floors can’t be damaged by water, direct sunlight exposure is another issue.

These floors are incredible and are being sold as a waterproof floor. I have inspected several luxury vinyl plank floors that have been installed over the past year or so, and one of the issues I get called in to diagnose is why the end joints are peaking up in specific areas.

It seems there aren’t many reports on issues with them yet. But get ready. You are going to hear about this more often — and soon.

Some luxury vinyl history

Luxury vinyl has been on the market for some time, starting with DuraCeramic and Adura. These glue-down floors had some issues when they first hit the market, but they have been corrected over the years with advancements in technology. The market demand for luxury vinyl has exploded over the last few years, so everyone got into the game.

Many once carpet-only mills now have luxury vinyl in their product offerings. With the push to hit the market with something new, many of these products are not as tried and true as the ones that have been around for a while. Flooring has always been one of those products that is true to the adage, “You get what you pay for.”

Some issues

One of the problems that luxury vinyl has had since its inception is its reaction to heat. Several manufacturers now have disclaimer lines in their installation instructions or warranties that warn against exposure to direct sunlight. While some will give recommendations as to how to prevent issues from occurring, vinyl reacts to temperature changes. It is the nature of the product.

Several manufacturers have realized this and are testing and bringing to market materials that are made more stable in an effort to counteract the effect of heat on the flooring. These manufacturers have added stabilizers to their vinyl product to help it take the temperature changes better. These products are new, and very few of them are available yet.

I have been inspecting laminate floors since the mid-90s, when a product called Pergo hit our shores. The biggest issue with laminate floors is water. Whether it’s water on top or water underneath makes no difference — the core of the laminate will absorb the water and swell. Water is like kryptonite to these types of products.

Not luxury vinyl though; it is impervious to water. Water cannot damage it. There is one thing that I am seeing however, which is like kryptonite to floating, luxury vinyl floors — direct sunlight exposure.

Image 1
LVT floor being damaged by direct sun exposure.

In Images 1 (above) and 2 (below), the floor receives direct sunlight exposure through the windows.

Image 2
The floor damage will become more prominent as exposure continues.

In nearly all the installation guidelines I have read, they specifically state in one way or another: “Do not install in locations exposed to direct sunlight.” In Image 1, direct sunlight is avoidable by simply closing the draperies. In Image 2, it’s not that easy because the floor is installed in a restaurant that receives sunlight exposure all morning long. It is possible to install some type of sunscreen, except the ambiance of the scenery outside is lost.

Image 3
This warehouse floor sees direct sunlight from above.

In Images 3 (above) and 4 (below) on this page, the floor is installed in a renovated warehouse.

Image 4
Areas with sunlight from above have few options for blocking out rays.

The sun comes through windows located 30 or more feet above the floor. There is no simple method to prevent direct sunlight exposure in this building.

Image 5
Homeowners with a beautiful view are unlikely to block the windows.

In Image 5 (above) and Images 6 and 7 (below), this floor is in a new home that overlooks some awesome scenery; I doubt the homeowners are going to install any draperies or window coverings.

Image 6
The floor here, because of direct sunlight, is showing damage.

Image 7
The floor just outside the sun’s reach should remain intact.

The windows and doors are energy efficient, double-paned, and gas-filled, but they do nothing to stop the heat of the sunlight passing through based on the readings I got on an infrared thermometer.

Image 8
This meter reading was taken from the flooring just inches away from direct sunlight on the floor.

The temperature of the floor in the areas just inches away from the direct sunlight is 66 degrees Fahrenheit (Image 8, above). But in the areas receiving direct sunlight, the temperature of the floor is up to 84 degrees Fahrenheit (Image 9) — an 18-degree Fahrenheit difference. And the outdoor temperature this day was rather moderate. You can see the readings on the next page.

Image 9
This reading was taken from the flooring in direct sunlight.

What’s next?

These floating, luxury vinyl, plank floors — although waterproof — meet their kryptonite with direct sunlight exposure.

Specifiers and designers need to be more aware of this, although I am certain it is only a matter of time before manufacturers figure out a solution to stabilize these products so they are not affected by direct sunlight.

I see a trend and am wondering if it is occurring in just northeast Ohio, where I work, or if this is happening in other parts of the country as well.

Consumers want to see the sun — not block it out, especially in northeast Ohio, so I am seeing a trend of fewer and fewer window treatments in different parts of homes. Here we have about 300 days a year where there is some sort of cloud cover. So, when the sun is shining, we want to relish as much of it as we can.

There may be options with films that can be added to windows to diffuse the heat of the sun coming through, and there are windows that will block the sun’s heat. However, architects and designers need to be aware of the limitations of the product being installed and the desires of the customer.

There could be more issues that come up with this type of flooring. Be prepared for them, and also be ready with explanations.

Mark Violand has been in the cleaning and restoration industry for almost 40 years. He is an IICRC-certified carpet inspector and approved instructor. His reputation precedes him as Northeast Ohio’s “go-to” floorcovering inspector, working for carpet, resilient, wood, and laminate manufacturers and floorcovering retailers. He teaches IICRC Carpet Cleaning Technician, Commercial Carpet Cleaning and Maintenance, and Carpet Repair and Reinstallation Technician courses. Contact him at��Mark@Mark4Floors.com.

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